the roamer<p>I used to read Jay Rayner's food column in The Observer every week. I was among the first to post a comment on his restaurant review early on Sunday morning. (I had a different alias.) I love real food and I love cooking, and Jay Rayner understands both better than most. He loves the raw materiality of it, and he appreciates the cheap cuts. He could enthuse on offal cuts like otherwise only I can. His restaurant reviews were unmissable.</p><p>I stopped being a regular reader a while ago. No reason, just shifting interests. Also he made fun of fathers who take simple pride in cooking for their children. That hurt. He is forgiven.</p><p>The Observer got sold, good people got fired, many good writers left beforehand. Rayner will now be with the FT, a good venue for his writing. </p><p>Here is his last piece with the Guardian, a tightly packed series of maxims, full of wisdom. All true. I am sorry The Observer of old is gone. I am glad Jay still writes.</p><p><a href="https://www.theguardian.com/food/2025/feb/20/jay-rayner-final-ofm-column-buffets-clean-eating-what-not-to-serve-food-on?CMP=share_btn_url" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" translate="no" target="_blank"><span class="invisible">https://www.</span><span class="ellipsis">theguardian.com/food/2025/feb/</span><span class="invisible">20/jay-rayner-final-ofm-column-buffets-clean-eating-what-not-to-serve-food-on?CMP=share_btn_url</span></a></p><p><a href="https://mastodonapp.uk/tags/JayRayner" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>JayRayner</span></a> <a href="https://mastodonapp.uk/tags/food" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>food</span></a></p>